Enclos animaux, parcs & zones de quarantaine
Des enclos qui se nettoient au jet et ne pourrissent jamais
Les locaux abritant des animaux sont humides, sales et soumis aux morsures. Les murs en PolyBrick® se nettoient facilement, ne pourrissent pas, ne retiennent pas l'humidité, et se démontent quand vous devez déplacer ou reconfigurer un enclos.
Pourquoi PolyBrick est adapté à cet usage
Tout espace de détention animale subit des contraintes que les structures de jardin ordinaires ne connaissent pas. Il est mouillé quotidiennement, souillé, appuyé, gratté, frotté, mâché, et doit être nettoyé régulièrement.
Le bois absorbe tout cela. Il imprègne l'urine et l'eau de lavage, reste humide dans les assises basses les plus exposées, et dès qu'il commence à se ramollir, il devient à la fois un problème structurel et un foyer pour les bactéries et autres organismes biohazardeux. Le bois traité met des produits de préservation à portée des animaux qui mâchent.
PolyBrick est non absorbant. Il ne retient pas l'humidité, ne se ramollit pas, ne pourrit pas, ne piège pas l'humidité dans les assises basses, et se nettoie au jet pour retrouver une surface propre plutôt que de rester définitivement encrassé. Le matériau est inerte : aucun produit appliqué en surface ne peut être mâché ou léché.
L'absence de fixations permet également de reconfigurer un enclos. Les parcs s'agrandissent, les boxes se subdivisent, une zone de quarantaine se monte et se démonte, et les blocs passent au chantier suivant plutôt que d'être mis au rebut.
Applications adaptées
- Parcs à volailles et canards
- Enclos pour lapins et cobayes
- Parcs et chenils pour chiens
- Loges et enclos pour porcs
- Parcs pour chèvres et moutons
- Murs de stockage de fourrage et de foin
- Parcs d'isolement et de quarantaine
- Structures d'accueil et de refuge pour animaux
En un coup d'œil
| Assemblage | Emboîtement par simple pression. Sans outils, mortier ni fixations |
| Nettoyage | Surface non absorbante. Se nettoie au jet ; ne retient pas les souillures |
| Reconfigurable | Les parcs peuvent être agrandis, subdivisés ou démontés et reconstruits ailleurs |
| Contact | Inerte. Aucun produit en surface susceptible d'être mâché ou léché |
| Résistance climatique | Résistant aux UV. Ne pourrit pas, ne rouille pas, ne se déforme pas, ne devient pas cassant |
| Matériau | Polypropylène 100% recyclé, fabriqué durablement dans l'UE à partir de polymères recyclés |
| Compression | Testé à 150 tonnes/m² sous charge statique fixe |
| Durée de service | 25 ans sous garantie |
Ce que les murs peuvent et ne peuvent pas faire
Il est utile d'être précis, car la contention animale ne laisse pas de place à l'approximation.
Les murs PolyBrick constituent la partie pleine d'un enclos : les assises basses, les murets, les cloisons, les bordures. Ils offrent une structure propre, lavable et imputrescible là où le bois cède en premier.
Ils ne constituent pas à eux seuls un système de contention complet. Tout animal qui grimpe, saute, vole ou creuse nécessite le reste de la conception : grillage au-dessus du mur, toit ou filet en couverture, et périmètre anti-fouissement enterré pour les animaux fouisseurs ou les prédateurs susceptibles de creuser.
Considérez la maçonnerie comme la partie de l'enclos qui reste propre et ne pourrit jamais, tandis que le grillage, la couverture et le périmètre enterré assurent la contention au-dessus et en dessous. Pour la contention ou la protection d'une espèce spécifique, respectez les préconisations propres à cet animal en matière de hauteur, de maillage, de profondeur d'enfouissement et de surface par animal.
Concevoir pour faciliter le nettoyage
La différence pratique la plus déterminante entre un enclos qui reste hygiénique et un qui ne l'est pas, c'est la facilité avec laquelle il peut réellement être nettoyé.
Construisez avec une pente pour que l'eau s'écoule vers un point de sortie plutôt que de stagner dans un angle. Gardez les angles intérieurs aussi ouverts que possible, car les angles fermés accumulent la litière souillée et sont les plus difficiles à curer correctement. Là où un mur rejoint un sol dur, soignez le raccord pour qu'une brosse puisse y passer.
Prévoyez des sections amovibles là où vous avez besoin d'accès, à la manière d'une façade de bac à compost. Pouvoir ouvrir un mur plutôt que de travailler à travers une petite porte fait une différence considérable sur la qualité réelle du nettoyage d'un parc.
How it goes together
- Set out the compound and check the ground. Level, firm and free-draining is what you want, and a wet corner will be the problem area forever if you build over it.
- Decide the floor before the walls. Bare earth, hard standing, or a stabilised gravel base each change how the compound cleans and drains, and it is far easier to prepare now.
- Prepare the ground for the first course: excavate to firm ground, compact, and screed level. Everything above follows this course.
- Where anything digs or where predators are a risk, put the dig-proof perimeter in at this stage. Retrofitting it later means taking the walls apart.
- Lay the first course and check level in both directions along the whole run.
- Build up in courses, staggering the joints between courses. Where you want removable access, build those sections as loose courses that lift out.
- Fix mesh, panels or roofing to whatever framework the design calls for, and make sure the junction between the blockwork and everything above it has no gaps at the level animals can reach.
- Cap the top course for a clean finish and an edge that is comfortable to handle.
Choosing the floor
The floor decides how much work the compound is, day to day.
Bare earth suits poultry and pigs that are meant to root and dust bathe, but it poaches in winter and cannot be disinfected.
Hard standing cleans and disinfects thoroughly, which is what you want for a quarantine pen or a kennel, but it needs a fall and a drain or the washing water has nowhere to go.
A stabilised gravel base sits between the two: firm and free-draining underfoot, no standing mud, and it copes with a hosing without turning to slurry. It is often the best answer for a run that is in constant use, and it stops the perimeter of the compound becoming the muddiest part of the holding.
Quarantine and isolation pens
An isolation pen has a different job from a permanent run: it needs to be thoroughly cleanable, genuinely separate, and often temporary.
Non-absorbent walls matter more here than anywhere. A surface that soaks up soiling cannot be properly disinfected, and porous, cracked or splintered materials give organisms somewhere to sit through a clean-down. Blockwork that washes to a clean surface is a considerably better starting point.
The dismantling advantage matters too. A quarantine pen can be built when it is needed, broken down and cleaned block by block afterwards, and stored flat until the next time, rather than standing unused and deteriorating.
Biosecurity is a whole protocol rather than a building material, so follow the guidance that applies to your species and situation on separation distances, movement, equipment and clean-down. The structure is one part of it.
Get it right first time
The one thing worth knowing: sort the drainage before you build anything.
Almost every unpleasant animal compound is unpleasant for the same reason: water has nowhere to go. Rain, washing down and soiling all end up in the same low corner, and once that corner is permanently wet it stays that way, whatever the walls are made of.
Set the falls, decide where the water leaves, and make sure the floor works before the first course goes down. It is a morning's thought and it determines whether cleaning the compound takes ten minutes or an hour, every single week, for the next twenty years.
Ask our engineer
Questions about compound layouts, floors, drainage or reconfigurable pens? Ask below, or get in touch directly.
Common Questions
Why use plastic blocks rather than timber for animal pens?
Timber absorbs urine and washing water, stays damp in the low courses where it matters most, and once it softens it becomes both a structural problem and a place organisms live. Treated timber also puts preservative in reach of animals that chew.
PolyBrick is non-absorbent, so it does not soften, rot or harbour damp, and it hoses down to a clean surface. The material is inert, with nothing applied to the surface to be chewed off.
Will PolyBrick walls contain animals on their own?
No, and it is important to be clear about that. The blockwork forms the solid part of a compound: base courses, low walls, dividers and surrounds.
Anything that climbs, jumps, flies or digs needs the rest of the specification, meaning mesh above the wall, a roof or netting over the top, and a dig-proof perimeter below ground. Follow the guidance for your species on height, mesh gauge, dig depth and space per animal.
Can the walls be disinfected?
The surface is non-absorbent, so it washes to a clean surface rather than soaking up soiling, which is what a porous or splintered material does. That makes it a considerably better starting point for a clean-down than timber.
Biosecurity is a whole protocol rather than a material, so follow the guidance that applies to your species and situation.
What floor should an animal compound have?
Bare earth suits poultry and pigs meant to root and dust bathe, but it poaches in winter and cannot be disinfected. Hard standing cleans thoroughly, which suits quarantine pens and kennels, but needs a fall and a drain.
A stabilised gravel base sits between the two: firm and free-draining, no standing mud, and it copes with hosing without turning to slurry.
Can a pen be taken apart and moved?
Yes. There are no fixings or mortar, so compounds can be extended, subdivided, dismantled and rebuilt elsewhere. That suits rotation, temporary quarantine areas, and any setup that changes as stock numbers do.
Blocks from a pen you no longer need go into the next project rather than being cut up.
How do you stop predators or animals digging under?
With a dig-proof perimeter below ground, installed before the walls go up. Retrofitting it later means taking the walls apart, so decide at the setting-out stage whether you need it.
Follow the guidance for the species you are containing or excluding on how deep and how far out that perimeter needs to run.
How do I make the compound easy to clean?
Build with a fall so water runs to one place and out rather than pooling in a corner, keep internal corners as open as you can, and make the junction between wall and floor something a brush can get into.
Build sections that lift out where you need access, since opening a wall is considerably more thorough than working through a small gate.
Is it suitable for a quarantine or isolation pen?
It suits the application well. Non-absorbent walls wash to a clean surface, where porous, cracked or splintered materials give organisms somewhere to sit through a clean-down.
The pen can also be built when needed, broken down and cleaned block by block afterwards, and stored flat until next time rather than standing unused and deteriorating.
Will animals chew or damage the blocks?
The material is a solid, UV stabilised recycled polypropylene with nothing applied to the surface, so there is no coating or preservative to come off.
It does not soften with moisture the way timber does, which is what usually makes chewing and rubbing damage progressive rather than superficial.
